So I got back from Lake Garda at the end of the week and then on the Tuesday I had another trip planned, although admittedly this was only a day trip. Still it meant getting up at around 4 am to get to the bus depot in time to leave at 6 am. The old fogies club in St. Pierre were doing this trip two days after my trip (with the same bus company) but as I wanted to travel with my friend we booked up for the trip that was to leave two days earlier. This was to a place called Facteur Cheval and I had no idea what it was about, other than a few photos. Now cheval is French for horse, so I imagined it was something to do with horses, but I was so, so wrong. In fact Facteur Chaval referred to Facteur (mailman) Cheval (that was his name)!!! So the whole visit revolved around a certain Monsieur Cheval who had been a mail carrier!
Apparently, one day in 1879, he came across an interesting stone during his daily 32 km mail carrier route! I questioned that twice with our guide but yes, apparently, his route was almost 20 miles long every day on foot - so no wonder they weren't fat in those days! Anyhoo, he decided that this stone was so beautiful that he wanted to build a "monument" to it and so every day on his rounds he picked up stones to add to whatever vision he had for his final monument! It took 33 years and 93,000 hours of work!
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| Ferdinand Cheval! |
As is our wont, my friend and I listened to the guide for a while and then wandered off on our own. While it's nice listeneng to guides and I certainly appreciate their knowledge, I find I just can't take in so many dates and, in the end, who cares anyway. Ferdinand Cheval was an incredible man who was not, ultimately, allowed to be buried in the grounds of his creation on land that he owned, so he subsequently spent eight more years building his own replica tomb in the grounds of a nearby cemetery! It was definitely an interesting experience!
My friend and I eventually skipped the guided tour and wandered round the museum and then went to get a coffee. If we had realized that the local market was on I think we would have skipped out sooner but hey ho, that's the way the cookie crumbles sometimes!
After lunch we headed off to a local chocolaterie and I have to be honest and say that this was the biggest disappointment. Of course we had a very personable young man to give us a 45 minute speech about their chocolates and how they are made and then we were each given a dish with six small chocolates where we had to "analyse" the taste - was it bitter, peppery, sweet, sour? I mean, give me a break, it was chocolate and to be honest I'd had enough after 10 minutes and one guy fell asleep in front of me so I reckon it wasn't just me! Admittedly the room was dark and hot but still, I'd had enough. After that we were invited to visit the shop but since I didn't like their chocolates anyway I bought a small packet of the only chocolate that I found palatable! Oddly enough, the St. Pierre old fogies club were to be doing the same trip with the same tour operator two days later and from feedback I've had from Martine (the club secretary) they were all very disappointed with the chocolaterie visit too. Still, time for positive/critical feedback to the tour company would seem to be in order on skipping this part of the visit next time!
Disappointing chocolate has to be a French embarrassment. Because it was one of the included museums in our Paris Pass and we gad a few hours before a wine tasting reservation, my family went to the Chocolat Museum. A but of a pleasant unplanned experience that we all enjoyed it very much, and the samples throughout were delicious, focusing on slightly different profiles There was a brief demonstration, chocolatier was entertaining, and gave us yet more chocolates. We were well primed for Beligium. You have some interesting day trips.
ReplyDeleteI think if they had showed us how it was made and, like you, had an actual chocolatier to demonstrate his art it might have been different, but sitting in a hot, dark room for 45 minutes was really soporific. And, in any case, I have no more interest in dissecting the different flavours of chocolate than I do with wine - I either like it or I don't, so yes I wasn't the only one disappointed in this part of the visit. Still, you win some, you lose some, don't you!
DeleteThere was a man in America whose name escapes me, who did the very same thing as the mailman; he built himself a house out of stones he'd collected. The amount of work and years these homes took is incredible.
ReplyDeleteAs one of those rare people who doesn't care for chocolate, I would have automatically skipped that part and gone for a glass of wine somewhere!
Ferdinand Cheval spent 33 years building his "palace", working every evening after his 20 mile mail route. I couldn't imagine walking 20 miles every day but my goodness you've got to give it to these men for their sheer willpower. If you think of the American man's name let me know as I really would like to read about his efforts. And I'm with you on the chocolate versus wine business. I'd rather sit on a terrace with a glass of wine any day than dive into a vat of chocolate!
DeleteOkay. The palace is awesome. The whole chocolate situation sounds horrible.
ReplyDeleteThat seems to be the general consensus on this trip!
DeleteThat is a fascinating palace. I'm with you, I can only take in so much information at once and I'd rather just meander at my own pace most times. The chocolate thing does sound a bit boring. I do enjoy a good chocolate, but I agree, I would rather sit outside with a nice glass of wine.
ReplyDeleteThe palace was really interesting but my friend and I tend to wander off and I will inevitably look things up afterwards if the interest is there. I suppose what a good guide can deliver are the interesting side stories but as for dates and the names of the lesser characters - nah, not so much!
DeleteInteresting. It looks a bit like Gaudi helped with the design.
ReplyDeleteI thought it looked a bit like a temple in Asia!
DeleteDay trips are some of the best trips. I was doing some wood floor refinishing in Denver for a friend. I
ReplyDeleteThere is such a lot to see in this region that I'm finding taking these day trips let's me discover things I probably would have driven right past on my own (like the fort). And of course, the added advantage is that I don't have to worry about finding a parking space!
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