The following day we headed out to what turned out to be the worst "goat track" of the whole trip. I remember in Mallorca our guide describing the mountainous road we'd just been over as the "Ay Maria" gorge because it was so bad - well frankly that had nothing on this! I'd guess we ended up covering about 50 km over fairly narrow roads over the Col de Vergjhu, through the Forest of Valdu'Niella and finally the Gorges de Spelunca - all very pretty and a bit hair-raising but definitely worth the trip. We eventually ended up at Porto, from where an even worse goat track was to take us up to the little mountain village of Piana - and this one was really nasty! The road was so narrow as to be unbelievable! In fact I couldn't see why they would ever allow tourist buses up there, but our guide explained that in high season they had people stationed at both ends of the pass alternating traffic. Trouble was, it wasn't yet high season, so we crawled up that thing at snail's pace - and even had to pass another bus coming the other way but which was thankfully able to pull over into a passing point!
These are not my photos, but I picked out this google photo to show what it was like! |
Our driver was wonderful but when I asked him if the guide had told him what he was in for he said she had explained it would be "interesting" (the understatement of the year)! We had lunch in the village of Piana, which was pretty enough, but no more so than many of the villages round here. I guess what made it "interesting" was the drive up there!
The village of Piana! |
At lunch we sat with Mrs. "Saint Sixt" and her husband, Robert (who was great fun). They must have been mid-70s and had been travelling with this particular company for almost 20 years, with Robert himself organizing trips for their local old fogies association on many occasions (although I'm sure the proper name was probably something like "senior citizens association). Anyway, Mrs. Saint Sixt was exclaiming how she "only had to look at a slice of bread and she gained 2 kg" - and then went on to finish her husband's lunch, ate his cheese platter and finished his dessert! As I say they were pretty nice and I got a real kick out of both of them!
Unfortunately for us the only way out of Piana was to go back down the way we came up, so after another 45 minutes (where I had to desperately clutch the armrests to stay awake in case the driver needed me!), we made it back down to the town of Porto, where we were booked on short-ish boat trip to visit the Unesco heritage site of the Calanques de Piana!
Les Calanques de Piana |
Also on the trip were a mother and daughter duo with mom being, I guess, in her 60s and the daughter, Mimi, being maybe around 35. Mimi wasn't her name - that's just an affectionate name for a young woman - but Mimi, sadly, was severely mentally handicapped and poor mom had one helluva time trying to cope with her throughout the whole trip. She was given to temper tantrums and in the hotel the staff had to follow her round in the dining room because she kept picking up food from the buffet, sniffing or licking it and putting it back!!! They also sat at the front of the bus and when it was time to get off, Mimi would make a big show of putting on her jacket, taking ages to do so, and holding up the entire bus! Mom said she did it deliberately and while mom was very, very good with her, you could see that she was very hard work! The husband had apparently done a runner shortly after Mimi was born leaving mom to raise their daughter. By this point Mimi lived in full-time residential care, with mom taking her out as and when she could, but even so it was quite obviously exhausting! People on the trip were very good with her though and even on the return ferry journey (where mom was seasick) two groups of two women took turns looking after Mimi so mom could rest. I sat with her for a while looking at pictures of jigsaw puzzles and in that short space of time I could only begin to appreciate just how challenging it must be for mom!
Potty stop central! |
Gorgeous scenery. I don't mind roads like that when I'm driving, but as a passenger I'd be on edge the entire time!
ReplyDeleteThe roads (and the drop over the side) didn't bother me so much, but the chance of meeting other vehicles coming from the opposite direction is what had me on edge!
DeleteI think I'd like that bus ride! My good friend Betsy makes her living taking care of people like Mimi and twice a week she's required to take her client to public places as part of a socialization process. She goes to large retail stores, shopping malls, restaurants, among other places. While this sounds admirable, Betsy says it's pretty much a waste of time since there's very little her client retains. She also says that there are times when her client will use these trips to create disturbances in order to get attention. I suspect Mimi's mom knew her daughter was going to be a disruption and while possibly lamenting that fact, just didn't care.
ReplyDeleteJudging by what mom said Mimi would indeed play up for the attention, but then she could be very sweet and easily pleased. I do think mom had just had it by the end though as 24/7 she must be exhausting. At least paid employees can walk away, unlike mom!
DeleteGorgeous photos! It's so sad about the Mom and daughter. I would never have continued on with a trip and left my husband alone. True, we don't know their story but I just can't picture myself doing that in any circumstance.
ReplyDeleteMy friend and I were both stunned when the wife decided to carry on with the trip (and change hotels, moving to a different part of the island) and as she was telling people what was going on, she really didn't seem overly concerned. As I say, I would NOT have left my own husband there alone, but who knows what her reasoning was!
DeleteOh Mimi, that is a tough one. Those roads, eep! But the ferry ride I definitely would have enjoyed. I don't know if I would leave my husband in hospital but maybe they had a discussion about it? :/
ReplyDeleteMaybe her husband did tell her to continue on with the holiday - but I know I wouldn't have left him either way!
DeleteI don't know anything about Corsica so I looked it up on wikipedia, Napoleon's birthplace. The scenery is beautiful and I feel for that poor woman with her daughter Mimi. I feel like that sometimes when I'm out with Katie. I'm getting older and what will happen in the next twenty years, I'll be in my eighties and she'll be in her fifties. I guess time with tell.
ReplyDeleteCorsica is definitely worth a visit if you ever get the chance. And you're right, this lady must be worried about her what will happen to her daughter as mom ages out! She was very good with her, as were most people on the bus, but she was exhausting and that poor lady must have been on her knees by the time she got home!
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